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Rip Curl Tip2Tip Chapter 1: Sonic Youth
On a stormy lay-day during the Rip Curl Pro, Bells Beach, Dillon, Koa, Davey and Gabriel went off looking for something better. They found it, but it was cold. Too close to the action. Didn’t really satisfy the itch. Back in the office, the brains were feeling pretty Searchy, fighting over Google Earth pipe dreams and the sort of logistical shit storms that come with an honest, one-of-a-kind mission...
episode 1.1 - anticipationFrom Los Angeles to Denpasar, it takes around 30 hours of air travel endurance. Even worse, from Rio de Janeiro to Denpasar, you’re looking at 44 hours. If you’re lucky enough to be Australian, grueling ocean crossings and nearly 2 days of lost surf time aren’t an issue. But after the drive to the boat and the run out to sea, the reality is outer-Indo is still a journey for even its closest neighbors. This is the price tag hanging from every flawless wave and castaway landscape… a fee, however, that’s gladly paid.
Relapse: Garut and the ReefGarut: "It all went down on the first day of the trip. It wasn’t that big - maybe three feet but super low tide. I mean really low - like ankle deep. I was in the barrel and couldn't see anything because of the morning light. I was coming out and getting ready to pull into the second section when things went wrong. The lip hit my head, and I fell hard and hit my chin on the reef straight away. When I hit the reef, I instantly thought: "This is going to be really bad.” The whitewash dragged me chest-first over the reef, then rolled me over and I hit my hand and butt really hard. I didn't realize until I got to the boat that my chin, inside lip, hands, chest, butt, and legs were pretty well shredded. The lime burns like you wouldn’t believe; that's serious pain. That was without a doubt the worst bash on the reef of my life."
episode 1.2 - in-betweeningIndonesia stretches for 2,600 miles from tip to tip. The United States stretches about 2,500. Yet nearly all of Indo is surfable territory, not cornfields and hunting clubs. On a boat trip concerned with such ludicrous distances, heavy exploration is inevitable. And so is downtime. The average teenager’s attention span is about 2 minutes… if they’re lucky. You can see the sort of challenge the captain of a boat full of psyching adolescents is facing here. Just another day on the job
YouTube Gold: Cosmically High Performance
Not that long ago, going for a surf at Uluwatu meant an all day trek through the jungle and a pit-stop at an afternoon cock fight. No all-day balinese photographers snapping and selling you surf shots of yourself. No topless European girls. No massages. For Australian Stephen Cooney and American Rusty Miller, it was simply nature, patchouli oil, single fins, and their cameraman, Albert Falzon. THAT was high performance. That was Morning of the Earth. Check out their sooo groovy Uluwatu session above:
episode 1.3 - hi-fiIndonesia’s first generation of traveling surfers were men in search of tubes and solitude. Nowhere else in the world did waves grind away with such sustained, balmy, vacant perfection. Back then Indo was the high performance surfer’s wet dream and unequivocal escape. Well… generations change; rules get re-written. Today, the air is as psychedelic as the green room. Kuta as electric as a LA nightclub. Yet still, Indo is the ultimate surf park for those uninterested in rulebooks. There’s just more noise now.